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| Here's how to create a dead pedal for your SLK using an SLK gas pedal for a stock look. You will need the pedal, a support bracket, some #14 hex head screws in assorted lengths, a 3/8" box-end or open-end wrench, a drill, epoxy, masking tape and some basic mechanical aptitude. CAUTION - WARNING - DISCLAIMER - this project involves drilling and installing screws through a thin plastic panel in the floor of the cockpit that covers electrical cables. You could very easily damage these cables with the drill or with the screws, resulting in damage to your car or serious injury to you. Use extreme caution, work slowly and proceed at your own risk.
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| On the left is a 2001 SLK gas pedal, MBZ Part No. A 170 300 00 04, $17. You do not need to order the entire gas pedal assembly. On the right is the support bracket, a galvanized mild steel gate bar latch, 6.5" x 1.5" x 0.125", $3 at a local hardware store. The raised center portion of the bracket is 4" long which, as you can see, fits perfectly to the base of the pedal, and is 1.75" high, which will bring the pedal off the cockpit floor by just the right amount. Note the segmented flexible plastic "tail" on the bottom of the pedal. I chose to retain the "tail" to cover the most visible of the screws that secure the bracket to the cockpit floor. Installation is marginally easier without it, but then the screws will show. If you keep the "tail", it needs to be shortened by cutting off the last segment.
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Drill three 1/4" holes, evenly spaced, through the raised center part of the bracket. Drill three corresponding 3/16" holes in the base of the pedal. The base of the pedal is hollow plastic, so drill slowly and stop as soon as the bit is through the plastic to avoid damaging the face of the pedal. Next, fold the "tail" under the pedal, so that the cut end rests against the side of the bracket. Mark the location of the existing holes in the end of the bracket on the "tail"; drill 1/4" holes through the "tail" at these two points.
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| Temporarily secure the pedal to the bracket with a single #14 x 0.75" hex head screw. Place a wide piece of masking tape on the raised portion of the cockpit floor to the left of the clutch pedal. Position the pedal so that it is at a comfortable height off the floor (2" to the bottom edge of the bracket worked for me). Hold the pedal in place with your foot and mark the top and bottom edges of the bracket on the masking tape. Remove the temporary screw from the pedal and, lining up the top and bottom edges of the bracket with the marks on the masking tape, mark the location of the bracket holes on the masking tape. Slowly drill 3/16" holes through the masking tape, carpet and underlying plastic backing (less than 0.5" in combined thickness). Stop the drill as soon as the bit penetrates the plastic backing to avoid damaging the electrical cables behind it.
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| Apply a coat of epoxy to the base of the pedal. Before the epoxy hardens, secure the pedal to the bracket with three #14 x 0.75" hex head screws. Do not overtighten the screws or you will strip the plastic base of the pedal.
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| When the epoxy is dry, remove the masking tape from the floor and screw the bracket down using #14 x 1" hex head screws at the top of the bracket and #14 x 1.25" hex head screws at the bottom of the bracket. Longer screws are required at the bottom on account of the additional thickness of the "tail". Be prepared to spend some time tightening down the screws - you will not have room to use a ratchet drive or screwdriver and will be forced to use a small 3/8" box-end or open-end wrench, turning the screws in very small increments. Avoid overtightening the screws to avoid stripping the underlying plastic backing. Voila! I find the completed dead pedal to be stable enough to support my foot during road driving but would not recommend it for track or autocross use.
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